来自《灵魂冲浪 第0集》

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  it looks like out there.
  那边的就不错
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  What's key about this six person heat
  实际上这场六人预赛中
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  is in fact that paddling and positioning, right?
  最重要就是划水和卡位 对吗
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  These girls are tough, especially Malina, you know that.
  这些女孩都很厉害 尤其是玛丽娜
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  The surf is big out there today,
  今天浪很大
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  so if you try to match them wave for wave,
  如果你想每个浪都上
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  you're just doing to wear yourself out with all that paddling.
  肯定会划水划到虚脱
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  Yeah.
  是的
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  So don't take just any wave that comes along.
  所以不要逢浪就上
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  The greatest surfers, they all have this sixth sense.
  最好的冲浪选手都有第六感
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  They know when the best waves are coming.
  他们知道什么时候最好的浪会过来
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  They can feel it. It's a gift.
  他们能感觉到 那是种天赋