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we've got to roll-- a meal where we have to
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--where you start out with a little something to drink,
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and then you have white wine with a fish course,
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or with oysters, or something like that,
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and you have a certain kind of red wine with duck,
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or whatever, and then a little red wine with cheese,
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but you can also have white wine with goat cheese,
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and maybe a little eau de vie at the end of it.
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This is something that's recent.
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Most people could never afford to eat like that.
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They did choucroute, they ate whatever they could;
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they couldn't afford to have wine.